I while back I ordered up the engine mounts from Fury Sports Cars and other than taking them out the packet hadnt really done anything with them.
This weekend I decided to bite the bullet and get the engine properly mounted and drill some holes in the chassis mounting plates, and thats where I had a problem.
The horizontal line going across the rectangle is the centre point for the engine mounts. Now unfortunately that line was also dead centre one of the chassis members! So it turns out that the chassis mounts supplied were actually about an inch to short on the passenger side.
After some deliberation the easiest and simplest method of sorting this is to create a spacer moving the mount away from the engine. Otherwise its a cut and shut job with Mr welder and Mr grinder and to be perfectly honest I just cant be bothered!
Ive mocked one out of 19mm Mdf and it works perfectly so the next stage is to get some 20mm aluminium bar and make the real deal.
Leading on from my last post, it would appear I just didn’t try hard enough! Dave (scudderfish) has proved its nice and easy with his V8 fury..V8 Fisher Fury
The answer apparently is with great difficulty!! I had a spare hour yesterday so thought I would get the engine and gearbox in and mark out the mount holes ready to drill.
Being the time concious and efficient fellow I am, I thought the best course of action would be to join the engine and gearbox together a la…
And let the whole lot slip easily into the engine bay. Turns out there isnt as much room to manoeuvre as I thought and I managed to get the whole lot wedged dramatically at an angle between the suspension and the transmission tunnel!
The even better part of this venture was that the engine which I thought was completely drained…clearly wasn’t! And whilst jammed at an angle decided to release a never ending flood of oil all over the garage floor.
In the end I gave in and split the whole assembly. And for anybody interested the method for fitting a zetec into a fury is as follows…
1. Gearbox into tunnel
2. Engine into bay
3. Attach engine to gearbox whilst still attached to crane
4. Attach engine Mounts
5. Finally lower into position
I now need to work out how far back I can mount the engine, before the clutch fork fouls the chassis. Overall not a particularly constructive hour… It does at least however all fit.
For anyone that may be asking the question about what is needed to fit the ST170 engine into a kit car, or even into rwd configuration there is a pretty comprehensive thread running over on LCB that may be of interest…ST170 into a Kitcar
How do you remove a flywheel without the correct locking tools?
As per the picture above you will need something that can hold the flywheel in place and stop it rotating whilst you undo the bolts.
Ive used Uni Strut as its like grownup Meccano and has elongated holes which means it lines up with the clutch bolts easily.
You could use anything, as long as it is long and strong enough to do the job.
You just nees to measure the holes where the clutch cover plate would attach and bolt it on. Then simply wedge your homebrew locking tool either against the floor or under your foot, and hey presto the flywheel is fixed in place allowing you to loosen the flywheel bolts. Simples
All interior panels are now completely finished. Unfortunately I have learnt the hard way that a sharp drill is imperative when drilling nice holes….although it seems ridiculously obvious having now written it down!
A couple of the holes have elongated a bit, but luckily they will be out of sight once body etc is in place.
Im not concerned about the knock on effect of the rivet holding properly in these places as I intend on tiger sealing all panels as well as the rivets.
So you may remember from an earlier post that I bought the type 9 blind, as it had no gear lever. I bought a quaife quick shift and having bolted it in, found that every gear was really crisp and easy to find…except for 2nd!
I remembered this was an issue when the car had its original engine so decided to do some research into the issue. It turns out that the main culprits are either the synchro has failed or the plastic gear lever saddle has worn away.
Always keen to explore the cheapest option first I discovered you can get a replacement brass saddle, although not entirely cheap for what it is, compared to a syncro rebuild it was worth a try! Demon tweeks / merlin etc all sell them, but the cheapest I found was from Steve Perks at http:// http://www.spcomponents.co.uk £20 Inc Vat and postage.
You can see below that the plastic version I removed had lost its lug.
Its simple enough to remove the saddle with a pair of needle nose pliers, leaving the following…
I then put a little bit of grease on the inside of the saddle to keep it in place, and lowered it into place.
Now the description says that the tips of the saddle should be crimped over slightly, however I couldnt for the life of me find either the space or strength to do so. Once the gearlever is on the saddle cant go anywhere, so ive decided to leave it as is, we’ll see what happens over the life of the car I suppose.
So the million dollar question, did it work? The answer yes! 2nd now comes nice and easily just like the others.
Bought a few bits over the last couple of days, nothing significant but as they came up for a good price It made sense to grab them. Also picked up a set of gsxr throttle bodies, but ill do a seperate post about those when they turn up.
Laranca Engineering weld on quick release steering hub:
Tow strap for when I finally get the car finished and out on track!